Saturday, May 23, 2015

Ca. 1820s Coat and Trousers, National Museum of Denmark

I've had this suit in my head all week but just finally found the source. It is from the National Museum of Denmark and is a perfect example of the deepening lapels that took hold in the early 1820s.

Link to the museum page:

The museum's website describes it as: "Long pants and morning dress from the 1820s....informal summer clothing....[Coat] is of white and blue narrow striped cotton . The pants are light yellow Nankin (sic) . In front flap with 3 buttonholes. Linning (sic) and crew (sic) are torn at the top."

Evolution of the collar and lapels is especially apparent wen compared to the common style of 5-10 years prior, as seen on this American linen coat from the MET, accession # 1997.508 and a coat of similar cut worn by Granville-Leveson, 1st Earl Granville in England, both ca. 1815.

Collars and lapels sat very noticeably higher at that point. Look closely here and you can see that William Croghan, Sr. of Locust Grove near Louisville, KY was keeping up with evolving fashions when his portrait was painted in 1820 at the age of 68 by John Wesley Jarvis (Collection of Historic Locust Grove, Louisville, KY):

Tuesday, March 24, 2015

1912 Rolls

Have been loving experimenting with recipes in the 1912 Lowney's Cookbook I found at Locust Grove's book sale recently. Tonight, I had great success with their recipe for "Parker House Rolls."

They took all afternoon with the various rises and all but the result was an amazing, big, fluffy, buttery roll. If you would like to give it a try:

(Part 1)

(Part 2)

Since the oven temp was vague, I cross reference with another recipe for Parker House Rolls from my 1924 cookbook, which recommended a 400 deg. oven. Amy found the experiment successful:


Yours, & c.

The Victorian Man

Sunday, March 8, 2015

Where Have I Been?

Can't believe it's been almost a year since I last wrote- it's been a busy one! Returned to the staff at Historic Locust Grove here in Louisville, this time as Program Coordinator. Never thought my actual job would be planning and executing programs at a 200+ year old historic site. Just to make things better, my office is in a loft perched on top of ca. 1810 log house.

Got to return to the museum where history first came to life for me in the first place (launching all you see here!), Heritage Village at Sharonville (Ohio), to do a special first person presentation as John Tipton. NOT a feel good story! The audience looked shocked. I will be returning to do a new presentation in March of 2016.

And, of course, tons of research an development on Victorian clothing and material culture, mostly my favorite book ends- the 1840s and the 1880s-90s. Made an 1840s frock coat and trousers for my friend Keith who does and 1842 interpretation at Locust Grove. You can't see it in the photo but the trousers are a nice, subtle blue plaid.

Wasn't happy with the way the last 1840s frock coat I made for myself was fitting in the arms but, luckily, my friend Michael Ramsey and I spent a weekend geeking out on Victorian clothing construction and he helped me diagnose the issue. Made a new one, happy with the result. Here with my 1790s friend Bob at my friends' Lance and Regan's Christmas party. Photo by buddy Asha.

Mostly everything else was just trying to get everything in shape to shoot it to the next level. One ongoing project- I had such good experience with Past Patterns' 014 Mid 19th Century Summer Trousers pattern that I have been using them as the basis for trousers of the 1880s-1890s by tweaking the back a little based on some details from the day and using Jason MacLochlainn's chart on page 86 of The Victorian Tailor to modify the knee and cuff widths. Results have been promising!


So- hopefully back on track and can share more actual information on the world of real Victorian men soon!

Yours &c,

The Victorian Man